
If you want to understand a city, eat breakfast where the people who live there eat breakfast. In Vientiane, one of those places is Mama Soiy Noodle Shop, on Rue Hengboun.
It’s cheap, it’s busy in the morning, and there’s more on the menu than noodles.
What to order
- Bouncy pork noodles. The reason most people come, and the dish I’d send you here for
- Rice porridge. Rich and creamy, the comfort option
- Fried bananas. Crisp and sweet, and a good thing to order for the table
- Iced coffee or iced tea. Lao coffee is strong, and you’ll want it cold
Why breakfast is the meal to eat out
Mornings in Laos start early. By the time most visitors are thinking about breakfast, the noodle shops have been going for hours. Go early, sit down, and if you’re not sure what to order, point at what the next table is eating. It rarely goes wrong.
The practical bit
- Where: Mama Soiy Noodle Shop, Rue Hengboun, Vientiane
- Order: bouncy pork noodles and an iced coffee
- When: morning, and the earlier the better
More Vientiane food is in the Laos guide, and in my five bold bites video.

