Vietnam

A thousand miles of coastline and three distinct food cultures. Do not try to see it all in ten days — everyone does, and it does not work.

Capital
Hanoi
Currency
Dong (₫)
Language
Vietnamese
Best months
Varies by region
Visa
E-visa, 90 days
Daily budget
$32 mid-range

Vietnam is long. Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City is roughly the distance from London to Rome, and the food at either end has less in common than you would expect. The north is subtle, herb-forward and comparatively restrained — that is where pho comes from, and northern pho is a clear broth with almost nothing added. Central Vietnam, around Hue and Da Nang, is the spiciest and the most complex, a legacy of the imperial court. The south is sweeter, more tropical, more influenced by Khmer and Chinese cooking.

The standard ten-day itinerary tries to cover all three, which means three internal flights and a lot of time in transit. Two weeks makes it comfortable. One week means picking one end.

When to go

Jan: Mixed time to visit
Feb: Good time to visit
Mar: Best time to visit
Apr: Best time to visit
May: Good time to visit
Jun: Mixed time to visit
Jul: Mixed time to visit
Aug: Mixed time to visit
Sep: Mixed time to visit
Oct: Good time to visit
Nov: Best time to visit
Dec: Good time to visit

Best Good Mixed Avoid

There is no single good season for the whole country. March–April and October–November are the best compromise: dry enough in the north, before or after the central typhoon season, and tolerable in the south. The centre floods September to November — Hue and Hoi An genuinely go under. Northern winters, December to February, are cold and grey; Hanoi at 12°C and damp surprises people.

What it costs

Fourteen days overland, Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City.
ItemRateTotal
Guesthouse room, private, AC$14 / night$196
Food and drink$8 / day$112
Night buses and trains (4 legs)$68
One internal flight$45
Local transport, Grab bikes$3 / day$42
Entry, Ha Long boat, museums$85
SIM, laundry, sundries$25
Fourteen days$573

Vietnam is the cheapest country in this set and the one where a small budget goes furthest. Grab motorbike taxis are absurdly cheap — often under a dollar across a city centre — and are the single best transport decision in Hanoi and Saigon.

What to eat

Pho ₫40–70k

In the north it arrives plain: broth, noodles, meat, spring onion. No basil, no bean sprouts, no hoisin. Adding them is a southern habit and northerners will let you know.

Bun cha ₫40–60k

Grilled pork patties in a sweet-sour broth with cold rice noodles and a mound of herbs. Hanoi’s best lunch. Eaten from about 11am until it runs out.

Banh mi ₫15–35k

French baguette, Vietnamese filling. Hoi An and Hue make the best ones. Ask for it with everything.

Bun bo Hue ₫40–60k

Central Vietnam’s signature: lemongrass beef noodle soup, properly hot, with a chilli-oil slick on top. Nothing like pho.

Cao lau ₫40–60k

Hoi An only, made with water from one specific well. Thick chewy noodles, pork, greens, barely any broth.

Ca phe sua da ₫15–30k

Robusta coffee dripped over condensed milk, poured on ice. Strong enough to change your afternoon. Egg coffee in Hanoi is the other one to try.

Where to base yourself

PlaceNotesNights
HanoiStay in the Old Quarter for the food and the chaos, or Ba Dinh if you want to sleep. The street food is the best in the country.3–4 nights
HueImperial cuisine and the citadel. Overlooked by people rushing between Hanoi and Hoi An, which is their loss.2 nights
Hoi AnBeautiful, and very much aware of it. Stay outside the old town, cycle in, avoid 6–9pm when the lanterns bring the crowds.2–3 nights
Ho Chi Minh CityDistrict 1 for convenience, District 3 or 5 for eating. The Mekong Delta is a day trip or a two-night detour.3 nights

A route that works

  1. Hanoi: arrive and walk

    Old Quarter on foot, nothing scheduled. Bun cha for a late lunch, egg coffee in the afternoon.

  2. Hanoi: food and the lake

    Morning pho, Dong Xuan market, Hoan Kiem in the evening when the streets close to traffic at weekends.

  3. Hanoi: museums or Ninh Binh day trip

    Ninh Binh is the better version of Ha Long — limestone karst, no cruise ships, two hours away.

  4. Ha Long or Bai Tu Long overnight

    If you do a cruise, pick Bai Tu Long bay to avoid the worst of the traffic. One night is enough.

  5. Night train south to Hue

    Soft sleeper, roughly 13 hours. Cheaper than a flight and it saves a hotel night.

  6. Hue: citadel and imperial food

    Citadel in the morning, then the small restaurants doing court dishes — banh beo, banh khoai, bun bo Hue.

  7. Hue to Hoi An by road

    Take the Hai Van Pass, not the tunnel. Three hours with the best coastal views in Vietnam.

  8. Hoi An: old town and tailors

    Cao lau for lunch, an early or late walk through the old town, and if you want clothes made, order on day one.

  9. Hoi An: beach and cycling

    An Bang beach in the morning, rice paddies by bike in the afternoon. The most relaxed day of the trip.

  10. Fly to Ho Chi Minh City

    Da Nang to Saigon, about $45 and 90 minutes. The one flight worth taking.

  11. Saigon: District 1 and war history

    War Remnants Museum in the morning — it is confronting and it is important. Ben Thanh area after.

  12. Saigon: District 5 and street food

    Cholon, the Chinese quarter, for a completely different city. Banh mi and broken rice for dinner.

  13. Mekong Delta day trip

    Can Tho for the floating market if you have two days; Ben Tre for a decent single day.

  14. Saigon: last morning, out

    Coffee, one more banh mi, airport by Grab.

Practical notes

Entry registrationNo arrival card, but the e-visa must be approved before you fly. Apply only through the official portal at evisa.gov.vn — the lookalike sites charging four times the fee are the single most common Vietnam travel scam.
VisaVietnam issues a 90-day e-visa online to most nationalities as of 2026, around $25, processed in three to five working days. Apply through the official government portal only — there are many convincing fake sites charging four times as much.
MoneyCash-heavy. The dong has a lot of zeros; 100,000₫ is about $4. Count carefully — the 20,000 and 500,000 notes are similar colours.
SIMViettel has the best rural coverage, Mobifone is fine in cities. Around $6 for 30 days with generous data.
TransportGrab, including Grab Bike, which is the fastest and cheapest way across any Vietnamese city. Motorbike helmets are provided and legally required.
Crossing roadsWalk slowly and predictably into the traffic and it flows around you. Stopping suddenly is what causes problems. This is genuinely the skill to learn on day one.
WaterBottled only. Ice in established places is made from filtered water and is fine.
EtiquetteRemove shoes entering homes and some temples. Pass things with both hands to elders. Bargaining is expected in markets, not in restaurants.
TippingNot traditional but increasingly common in tourist areas. Rounding up is plenty.

Where your time is better spent

Ha Long Bay cruises are the most oversold experience in Vietnam. If you have seen Ninh Binh or are going to Thailand or the Philippines, skip it — the bay is beautiful and the volume of boats is not.

Sapa has become a construction site with a view. Trek from Bac Ha or Ha Giang instead if the mountains are what you want. And Hoi An between 6 and 9pm is a photograph queue rather than a town; go at 7am.

Before you book

Visa rules, park fees and prices in this guide were checked in September 2026 and they move. Confirm entry requirements with your own foreign ministry and current fees with the relevant authority before committing money.

Say It Yourself

Twelve phrases in Vietnamese

Back to the route

Vietnamese has six tones in the north and the diacritics tell you which one. The marks are not decoration — they change the word entirely. Learn to read them and your pronunciation improves immediately, even without practice.

Hello Xin chào sin chow

Universal, polite, works with anyone.

Essentials
Thank you Cảm ơn kahm uhn

Add nhiều for thank you very much.

Essentials
Sorry / excuse me Xin lỗi sin loy

Also how you interrupt politely.

Essentials
Not spicy Không cay khong kai

Khong is the all-purpose no.

Eating
Very tasty Ngon quá ngon kwa

Quá means very. Say it and mean it.

Eating
This one for me Cho tôi cái này cho toy kai nay

Cho toi is give me. Point at the rest.

Eating
How much? Bao nhiêu tiền? bow nyew tyen

Tien is money. Often shortened to bao nhieu.

Money
Too expensive Đắt quá dat kwa

The most-used phrase in any Vietnamese market.

Money
Can you come down? Bớt được không? burt duoc khong

Markets yes, restaurants no.

Money
Where is the toilet? Nhà vệ sinh ở đâu? nya ve sing uh dow

O dau is where. Reusable.

Getting around
Stop here Dừng ở đây zung uh day

For Grab bikes and taxis.

Getting around
I do not understand Tôi không hiểu toy khong hyew

Toi is I. Hieu is understand.

Getting around

The 6 tones, drawn

Ngang level, no mark
Huyền falls (à)
Sắc rises (á)
Hỏi dips and returns (ả)
Ngã broken rise (ã)
Nặng short and heavy (ạ)

One to ten, for price tags

1một
2hai
3ba
4bốn
5năm
6sáu
7bảy
8tám
9chín
10mười

The dong has a lot of zeros. Vendors usually quote in thousands — nam muoi means fifty, meaning 50,000 dong, roughly two dollars.

Vietnam Questions

The four I get asked most

Is Vietnam better in the north or the south?

The north for food and landscape, the south for energy and ease. If you have one week, pick Hanoi and the north — the street food is denser and the day trips are better.

Is the overnight train or bus better?

Train, without much argument. Soft sleepers are comfortable, the bathrooms are usable and the roads are the more dangerous option. Sleeper buses are cheaper and much less pleasant.

Do you need a guide for the Mekong Delta?

For a day trip, yes — the logistics do not work well independently. For two or more days, base in Can Tho and arrange a boat locally at dawn, which is far better than any group tour.

How bad is the traffic really?

In Hanoi and Saigon it is constant but slow, which makes it survivable. Renting a motorbike as an inexperienced rider is the single most dangerous thing most travellers do in Vietnam.

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