Indonesia

Seventeen thousand islands, and most visitors see one. Bali is worth it — but Java is where the country actually is.

Capital
Jakarta
Currency
Rupiah (Rp)
Language
Indonesian
Best months
May – Sep
Visa
VOA, 30 days
Daily budget
$35 mid-range

Bali is a single small island in a country of seventeen thousand, and it absorbs the overwhelming majority of foreign visitors. That is not an argument against going — Balinese food and Hindu culture are genuinely distinct from the rest of Indonesia, and worth the trip on their own. It is an argument for adding Java, which is two hours away, has the volcanoes, the temples and the better street food, and costs half as much.

The food across both is built on sambal. There are hundreds of regional versions and the good warungs make theirs fresh daily. Padang food, from Sumatra, is the country’s great export cuisine: a dozen pre-cooked dishes displayed in the window, you point, you pay for what you eat.

When to go

Jan: Avoid time to visit
Feb: Avoid time to visit
Mar: Mixed time to visit
Apr: Good time to visit
May: Best time to visit
Jun: Best time to visit
Jul: Best time to visit
Aug: Best time to visit
Sep: Best time to visit
Oct: Good time to visit
Nov: Mixed time to visit
Dec: Avoid time to visit

Best Good Mixed Avoid

Dry season May to September, and it is a clear distinction — the wet season brings genuine daily downpours rather than passing showers. July and August are peak in Bali, with prices and Canggu traffic to match. May, June and September are the sweet spot. Volcano hikes in Java need dry weather to be worth doing at all.

What it costs

Fourteen days across Bali and central Java.
ItemRateTotal
Guesthouse or homestay$18 / night$252
Food and drink$10 / day$140
Ferry, trains, one flight$95
Scooter hire and fuel$5 / day$70
Temples, Borobudur, volcano guide$130
SIM, laundry, sundries$28
Fourteen days$715

Borobudur and Prambanan are the expensive line — foreign-visitor pricing is roughly $25 and $18 respectively, and the Bromo or Ijen guided hikes are $35–60 each. Everything else is cheap. Java accommodation runs about half of Bali’s for the same standard.

What to eat

Nasi campur Rp20–45k

Rice with a selection of small dishes — the everyday meal and the best way to eat at a warung. Every region’s version is different.

Babi guling Rp50–90k

Balinese spit-roast suckling pig with crackling, lawar and blood sausage. A Hindu-island dish you will not find in Muslim Java. Go at lunch; it sells out.

Nasi padang Rp25–50k

Sumatran. Dishes arrive unasked, you eat what you want and pay for those. Rendang, gulai, sambal ijo. The best value meal in the country.

Gudeg Rp20–40k

Yogyakarta’s signature: young jackfruit slow-stewed in palm sugar and coconut for hours until it is sweet and mahogany-dark. Breakfast food.

Sate Rp15–40k

Chicken, goat or rabbit, grilled over coconut husk with peanut sauce. Madura-style is the classic. Buy ten skewers, not five.

Bakso Rp15–30k

Meatball noodle soup sold from carts and one of the great late-night foods. The cart bell is how you find it.

Where to base yourself

PlaceNotesNights
Ubud, BaliInland, cooler, and the food is better than the coast. Base outside the centre and walk in.3–4 nights
Amed or Sidemen, BaliEast Bali, barely developed, with the rice terraces and diving. What Bali was.2–3 nights
Yogyakarta, JavaThe cultural capital, Borobudur and Prambanan within reach, and the best street food in Indonesia.3–4 nights
Malang or Bromo area, JavaThe volcano base. Cold at altitude — bring a jacket, which nobody does.2–3 nights

A route that works

  1. Arrive Denpasar, straight to Ubud

    Skip the airport-area beaches entirely. Ubud in the afternoon, babi guling if it is before 2pm.

  2. Ubud: market and rice terraces

    Market at 6am before it turns into a souvenir hall. Tegalalang or, better, the Campuhan ridge walk.

  3. Ubud: temples and cooking class

    Goa Gajah and Tirta Empul early. A cooking class here is worth more than one in Thailand — the sambal technique is the takeaway.

  4. East to Sidemen or Amed

    Two hours by car. Rice terraces without the coaches, or the coast for diving the Liberty wreck.

  5. East Bali: slow day

    Snorkel, walk, eat. The first genuinely quiet day.

  6. Fly or ferry to Java

    Fly Denpasar to Yogyakarta (about $45, 90 minutes), or ferry to Banyuwangi and train west if you have the time.

  7. Yogyakarta: city and food

    Kraton palace, Taman Sari, then Malioboro area for gudeg and the night food carts.

  8. Borobudur at sunrise

    Leave at 4am. It is worth the alarm exactly once, and the light at 6am is the reason.

  9. Prambanan and the countryside

    The Hindu counterpart to Borobudur, less visited, arguably more beautiful. Afternoon in the villages by scooter.

  10. Train east to Malang

    Comfortable, cheap, scenic. Java’s trains are a genuine pleasure.

  11. Bromo sunrise

    Another 3am start, a jeep, and a caldera that looks like another planet. Bring the jacket.

  12. Malang: coffee and recovery

    The city is a pleasant surprise — Dutch colonial streets, good coffee, no tourists.

  13. Ijen crater or back west

    The blue-flame hike is a hard 2am climb with sulphur fumes. Rewarding, genuinely unpleasant, entirely optional.

  14. Fly out from Surabaya or back to Bali

    Either works. Surabaya has more international connections than people expect.

Practical notes

Arrival declarationAn electronic customs declaration is required for every arrival, submitted within three days of landing at allindonesia.beacukai.go.id. Free. The e-VOA for the visa itself is separate, at evisa.imigrasi.go.id.
VisaVisa on arrival for most Western passports, 30 days, around $35, extendable once for another 30. An e-VOA is available online in advance and saves queueing. A customs declaration (e-CD) is required — do it before landing.
MoneyCash-dominant outside Bali. ATM fees are high and machines cap withdrawals low, so plan around it. Use bank-branch ATMs, not the ones in convenience stores.
SIMTelkomsel has by far the best coverage across the islands. Around $10 for 30 days. Buy from an official store, not a street kiosk, to avoid registration problems.
TransportGojek and Grab for cars and bikes in cities, but both are banned or restricted in parts of Bali where local transport co-operatives operate — expect to negotiate a car in those areas.
ScootersUbiquitous and the main cause of tourist injury. An international licence with a motorcycle endorsement is legally required and increasingly checked. Helmets always.
WaterBottled or refill. Balinese "Bali belly" is usually raw vegetables or ice at cheap warungs rather than the water itself.
EtiquetteSarong and sash required at Balinese temples, usually provided. Java is Muslim-majority and more conservative in dress. Use your right hand. Do not touch anyone’s head.
TippingNot expected; 10% is often added in restaurants. Rounding up for drivers and guides is normal.

Where your time is better spent

Kuta, Legian and most of Canggu. Traffic, chain restaurants and a version of Bali that has very little to do with Bali. If you want the coast, go east or north.

The Instagram infrastructure — the gates, the swings, the nests — is a paid queue for a photograph. Also skip Mount Batur sunrise if you are doing Bromo or Ijen; it is the least rewarding of the three and by far the most crowded.

Before you book

Visa rules, park fees and prices in this guide were checked in September 2026 and they move. Confirm entry requirements with your own foreign ministry and current fees with the relevant authority before committing money.

Say It Yourself

Twelve phrases in Indonesian

Back to the route

Indonesian is the most forgiving language here: Latin alphabet, no tones, no verb conjugation, and pronounced as written. A week of effort gets you genuinely far, and outside Bali almost nobody expects a visitor to try.

Hello Halo HAH-loh

Selamat pagi for morning, selamat siang for midday.

Essentials
Thank you Terima kasih te-ree-mah KAH-see

Same as Malay. Answer: sama-sama.

Essentials
Excuse me Permisi per-MEE-see

Say it entering a shop or passing someone.

Essentials
Not spicy Tidak pedas TEE-dak PEH-das

Or sambal terpisah — sambal on the side.

Eating
Very delicious Enak sekali EH-nak se-KAH-lee

Enak alone is plenty.

Eating
This one Yang ini yang EE-nee

The whole of warung ordering, in two words.

Eating
How much is it? Berapa harganya? be-RAH-pah har-GAH-nyah

Learn this before you land.

Money
Too expensive Terlalu mahal ter-LAH-loo MAH-hal

Markets and drivers, not warungs.

Money
Can it be less? Bisa kurang? BEE-sah KOO-rang

Bisa means can. Very useful.

Money
Where is the toilet? Kamar kecil di mana? KAH-mar ke-CHEEL dee MAH-nah

Or just toilet, which is understood.

Getting around
Stop here Berhenti di sini ber-HEN-tee dee SEE-nee

For Gojek and Grab.

Getting around
I do not understand Saya tidak mengerti SAH-yah TEE-dak me-nger-TEE

Slow them down without pretending.

Getting around

One to ten, for price tags

1satu
2dua
3tiga
4empat
5lima
6enam
7tujuh
8delapan
9sembilan
10sepuluh

Rupiah prices are long. Sellers say dua puluh ribu for 20,000 — ribu is thousand, and it is the word to listen for.

Indonesia Questions

The four I get asked most

Is Bali worth it in 2026?

Yes, if you go inland and east and treat the south coast as an airport you pass through. Ubud, Sidemen, Amed and the north still work. The southern beach strip is a different product entirely.

Do you need to visit Java?

Not need, but it is what makes an Indonesia trip rather than a Bali trip. Yogyakarta plus Borobudur plus a volcano is five days and roughly half the cost of the same time in Bali.

How difficult are the volcano hikes?

Bromo is barely a hike — a jeep and 250 steps. Ijen is three to four hours up in the dark with sulphur gas and requires a mask, which guides provide. Neither needs technical skill; Ijen needs willingness.

Is Indonesian food spicy?

The dishes often are not; the sambal on the side always is. That is the structure of the cuisine — you control the heat. Ask for sambal terpisah to have it served separately.

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