Kayiwa · · 2 min read
Jodd Fairs has a problem, and it’s a good one. There’s so much food that you can walk the whole market twice and still not know where to start.
I filmed this back in 2022, looking for food I hadn’t tried before. I came away with mala skewers, a steak grilled to order, and far too many stalls left untried.
What to eat
Start with the mala BBQ skewers. You pick your skewers, they’re grilled and coated in mala seasoning, and the Sichuan pepper numbs your mouth in the best way. After that, the grilled beef steaks cooked to order are the more filling option.
Go hungry and share. The only way to do a market this size is small plates from lots of stalls.
Some history, and what’s changed
Jodd Fairs began as the comeback of the Ratchada Train Night Market, reopening under its new name at the end of November 2021, and it became one of the most popular night markets in Bangkok almost straight away.
Things have moved since I filmed. The original Rama 9 lot has closed, and the market now runs from its site on Ratchadaphisek Road, near MRT Thailand Cultural Centre. Check the latest location and hours on their social media before you go.
The practical bit
- Where: Ratchadaphisek Road, near MRT Thailand Cultural Centre (check before you go)
- Open: evenings, from around 4 or 5pm until midnight or later
- Start with: mala skewers
- More from Jodd Fairs: my 2023 visit and takoyaki on my second trip
More places like this are in my guide to Bangkok street food: the stalls and night markets I have filmed, with prices and how to get there.